RING
OF KERRY
FISHERMEN RETURN HOME ON A QUICKSILVER SEA.
The
famous Ring of Kerry is a scenic tour around the largest of the Kerry
peninsulas, the Iveragh. The centre of the peninsula has a great spine
of mountains and few inhabitants. The tour visits the little towns and
villages around the edge of the peninsula, but the greatest value is
the stunning natural beauty. Visible to the north and south are its
sister peninsulas Dingle and Beara respectively. Across these stretches
of sea you will see dramatic cliffs, quaint sandy bays, rocky outcrops
and beautiful vistas that can quickly change from tranquil to wild at
the notion of the fickle Atlantic. At all times you will never fail
to be impressed by the way that the light plays on the scenery, changing
moods several times a day.
It is customary for the tour of the Ring of Kerry to take an anti-clockwise
direction starting at the Killorglin end in the north and ending up
at the Kenmare end in the south. With that in mind the more individual
visitors, with their own transport, may care to shun tradition and go
clockwise avoiding the summer traffic direction.
Keeping to the traditional route the first town of size encountered
is Killorglin (Cill Orglan) which nestles in the River
Laune valley and is joined by a stone bridge. Just before the bridge
is a Salmon Smokery and Craft shop, beside an attractive thatched pub,
Edsos and The Fishery restaurant. Each mid-August the town transforms
to accommodate the curious Puck Fair which is held over three
days and is a light-hearted festival with a goat being crowned the Puck
King with due ceremony. It probably has its origins in pagan ceremonies
although in more recent times wild goats scattering would give early
warnings of the approach of an unwelcome army. On the second day the
more serious business of buying and selling livestock prevails. The
last day is called the 'scattering day' with the bewildered goat released
with considerable ceremony.
Before the little village of Glenbeigh (Gleann Beithe)
there is the opportunity to take the road along the shores of Caragh
Lake and experience the solitude of the mountains in this most attractive
setting. Glencar, to the south of the lake, is noted for its
fine fishing.
In an isolated part of the road back on the Ring 'proper' is Bog Village,
the home of the Bog Museum. Here are theme cottages representing
early days living 'on the bog'.
On the way to Cahersiveen is the Golden Mile Nature Trail that
follows the scenic route of the old Great Southern & Western Railway.
Close to the start and finish of the trail is Pat's Craft Shop
which specialises in quality Irish goods and is run by the genial Pat
Golden and his family who represent five generations of managing a store
in this location.
At the north west end of the peninsula is Cahersiveen (Cathair
Saidbhin), capital of the Iveragh peninsula and a surprisingly large
town with a distinctly relaxed view of life. Long and narrow, town and
it seems that the buildings are painted brighter on the inland side
of the street, or perhaps it is just that it's the sunny side. The
Barracks is an interesting building on the north of the town, in
a turreted fortress style reconstructed from the former Royal Irish
Constabulary barracks. It houses local exhibitions of crafts and paintings,
as well as relating the story of the area; it is also the location of
the Tourist Information office in the summer. In the centre of the town,
in an old church, is the Oratory Gallery & Craft centre and several
pubs relate their name to the famous Irish patriot, Daniel O'Connell.
Famous for his peaceful and dignified campaign, for achieving democracy
and Catholic emancipation from harsh laws (he was later nicknamed "The
Liberator"). O'Connell was born in the town in 1775.
