CORK
CITY
ATMOSPHERIC REFLECTIONS
OF CORK
CITY HALL BESIDE THE RIVER LEE.
Most
cities settle for a straight main street but Cork (Corcaigh)
bothers with nothing so boring. It’s main street St. Patrick’s
Street (shortened by all to “Patrick’s Street”) carves
a leisurely arc through the centre perhaps in sympathy with the city’s
river – the Lee.
The influence of the river is not limited to the shape of the main street,
the city centre itself is on an island with the river dividing in the
western suburbs and rejoining at the Customs House in the east. It was
here that the port of Cork was spawned and everywhere can be seen evidence
of its maritime trading past in the form of old stone warehouses, many
now converted, and quays – there are about ten different named
ones.
Despite being Ireland’s second city (third, if you include Belfast
in the north) it is compact and easily covered on foot. If you do decide
to roam via car, the labyrinth of one way streets, especially around
the quays at the north channel of the River Lee will either send
you round in circles or sweep you away from the town centre – so
be warned.
Cork city has a spring in its step and there is a youthful enthusiasm
about life here influenced perhaps by University College, Cork
which despite recently celebrating 150 years of existence still helps
to keep the city young. (There are guided walking tours daily June –
Aug. Tel: 021-276871). Don’t however be sidetracked by the slow
pace – drop into one of the many small bars (Oliver Plunkett Street
area has some good ones) later in the evening and you’ll see how
the pace hots up.
Cork city’s history is emblazoned with the Republican cause and
some of the streets are named after famous Irish republicans. The early
part of this century saw two consecutive mayors of the city suffer for
their cause, the first, Thomas MacCurtain was murdered in 1920 by the
Black & Tans – the nick-name given to demobilised British soldiers
drafted in to act as police and who acquired a reputation for cruelty
still remembered today. His name lives on with MacCurtain Street just
north of the river and the main exit route to Dublin. The second, Terence
MacSwiney died after a hunger strike of 74 days in Brixton prison. The
Cork Museum in Fitzgerald Park (see museums section) gives an excellent
account of the part the city played in Irish history.
Cork has retained a lovely old indoor market between Grand Parade and
Princes Street where the emphasis is on fresh produce and fish. The
latter is particularly interesting as almost every species of marine
life appears to be on display – although a more practical purchase
would be the sides of smoked salmon from the same stalls where half
the fun will be the conversation with the fishmonger. Experience the
aromas of herbs, coffee, cheeses and a wealth of fascinating produce.
