The city of Armagh’s two cathedrals, the icons of this land’s two cultures, look out from their separate hills across Ulster’s flowery vale, this orchard county. Since pre-history there has been a settlement here and thus archaeologists agree that this is the oldest town in Ireland, though just what commerce was transacted before St Patrick established his first bishopric here in 444/5 AD is lost in the Celtic mists.

Certainly though, at Navan, two miles west, was Emain Macha, the seat of the ancient kings of Ulster, named for the princess Macha, who had her palace here, where the Red Branch Knights had their Irish Camelot and where the deeds of Cuchulainn — are set in song and story. The city has the province’s finest Georgian doorways.

Armagh City and District Council has created a real gem of a Country Park and Golf Course amoung the emerald hills of Loughgall. The 18 hole golf course, 37 acre coarse fishery, bridle path, scenic walks and an outdoor children's play area have been provided by the council in the former Department of Agriculture research station.

The Mall, once the city’s racecourse, is fittingly shaped like a cricket bat’s blade in profile, for here, beneath the mature and leafy trees, beside the ornamental cannon, is a good place to watch country cricket, then stroll its fine circuit of elegant buildings.

The Courthouse (1809), at the north end of the Mall was designed by the city’s native architect Francis Johnston who later went on to design much of Georgian Dublin. The elegant disused gaol is at the opposite end. Ponder on those who walked the Mall between them, guilty or innocent.

Armagh County Museum (1833), houses one of the most impressive county collections in Ireland. Its fine Ionic columns, which greet the visitor, make the building one of the landmarks of the Mall. The exhibitions cover life in Armagh from early to more recent times and include archaeology. Local history, crafts, natural history and art. In addition there are a range of constantly changing temporary displays. Admission to the Museum if free. The Sovereign’s House (1810) contains the Museum of the Royal Irish Fusiliers. There are other fine buildings of the period in the warm local stone in Charlemont Place and in Scotch Street.