
PEACE AND SOLITUDE
- THE SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE WEST COAST - LOOKING TO JURA FROM ISLAY.
Kintyre
is a narrow peninsula that juts almost due south into the Irish Sea.
It joins the rest of Argyll at Tarbert which sits on the narrow
isthmus of land between West Loch Tarbert and East Loch Tarbert. It
is essentially a fishing village and has a very pretty appearance and
everywhere is a relaxed atmosphere. Robert the Bruce built a castle
here in the 14th century and although today it remains as ruins, there
are excellent views over the town from here. Popular in the summer with
travellers both by sea and road, the former providing an opportunity
for a dreamy afternoon just watching the boats come and go. There is
a Heritage Centre An Tairbeart set in attractive woods
with walks to different demonstrations of traditional farming of natural
resources. Craft shop and restaurant. Tel. (01880) 820190.
Tarbert's relationship with the sea is extended with a number of ferry
services one to Portavadie on the Cowal Coast, (east) or from
Kennacraig south of Tarbert to the Isles of Islay and Jura in
the west, as well as another service from Tayinloan across the
narrow sound to the small island of Gigha with its hoards of
Ayrshire cattle. In Achamore House Gardens on the island, close
to the village of Ardminish, early summer reveals a blaze of
colour with azaleas and rhododendrons.
Halfway between Tarbet and Campbeltown is Carradale a popular
little resort which has two interesting tanneries.
Two roads run north-south on the peninsula, one to the west and one
on the more sheltered eastern route. Both are attractive with little
villages, superb views and vistas inviting stops along the way.
Campbeltown is the largest town on the Kintyre peninsula nestling
at the head of Campbeltown Loch. Just two of its 34 whisky distilleries
survive, but cheese-making flourishes. One recommended walk, if you
pay attention to the tide tables, is across the tidal spit, known as
the Dhorlin, to Davaar Island at the mouth of Campbeltown
Loch and its dream-inspired Crucifixion cave painting.
As well as whisky distilleries Campbeltown was also known for its churches
or kirks and the multitude of spires and towers in the area testify
to this. The town has an excellent selection of quality shops, in particular
there is the Campbeltown Pottery, at the northern edge of the
town, with a distinctive range of craftware